Fin de Asfalto - End of Asphalt
The last day’s travelling was the one I feared the most, because “Brasnorte” is famous for one thing here, the end of the asphalt roads and the start of the dirt tracks.
The end of the road.
I wonder does it also mark the end of civilisation?
My little Uno was put to the test, and thankfully not found wanting. The problem is the muck during the wet season. When one comes across a pool of water blocking the road, many things go through your mind, such as: How deep is the water? How fast to go? I needed to go fast enough for momentum and not get stuck, and slow enough not to cause a splash and drown the engine. The last thing I needed was to break down in the middle of nowhere and me on my own! Any way I had plenty of the most important thing here necessary for travelling; “WATER”.
The water creeping on to the road from both sides, another few days of rain and the road will be under water
Thankfully all went well and I arrived in Juina city and took a break and then continued on the my new parish of “Santo Antônio, Castanheira” arriving during the hottest time of the day, during siesta, to find the parish and town closed up, just like you would see on the cowboy movies. Even the horses were tied to the trees and some of the men sleeping in the shade.
Of the whole journey to Castanheira the most difficult part was trying to enter the town itself, as the main road through the town is a dirt road and the entrance is in a hollow and the rains had turned it into a mud hole like you see on the nature films. After six days was I going to fall on the last hurdle? Thankfully no!
Welcome to Castanheira{Castan Tree}
It is three hours south of my last place of work, “Juruena” and about and hour north of the nearest big town or cities as they are all called here. Castanheira is definitely a lot poorer than Juruena, possibly the close proximity to Juina City means it did not develop as well as Juruena which is more distant.
When I was in Juruena I was often surprised how European the majority of the people looked. Lots of Red hair – the Irish must have passed through here some time or other! Where as, in Castanheira the majority are a little darker in skin, not African looking but more Indigenous. I hear there is a large Native Indigenous Reserved near by. I hope to visit there some day.
On another side note: I have met the Indians in town shopping and it is strange to see them in their outfits and a big piece of wood in their ears and them pushing a shopping trolly around the supermarket. “Well that’s Brazil for you!” I was in a garage the other day looking wishfully at a second hand jeep, thinking my little Uno is too small for the dangerous roads here, but the Jeep I was looking at also caught the eye of a group of Indians, all dressed up for a day-in-town in their Indian finery. It was so strange. They fact that they live off the land made me wonder where would they get the money?
Interestingly, I am forbidden under the terms of my Government Work Visa to work as a priest in an Indian Reserve. This is out of respect for the local indigenous tribes. Because huge damage was done to their culture in the last twenty or so years by some of the North American Evangelical Churches, who are very forceful in their evangelisation, “ramming the Word of God down peoples throats” type of thing and showing no respect for their culture. In some places local culture was almost destroyed. So much so the Government has created and Indian Bureau “FUNAI” and all missionaries must have their permission first to enter Indian land. This policy has the full backing of Brazil’s Catholic Bishops.
Our diocese has one priest, a Jesuit, whose job is to look after their Spiritual needs of the indigenous tribes in the reserves, and only he has permission to enter.
Back to Castanheira: It is named after a tree that produces a nut that is very popular at home during Halloween. [The nut is brown and triangular and a bit ugly looking, and they come off the tree in a bid nut, not too unlike the coconut. They job is to break into the first shell to get at the nuts and then break into the nuts themselves]. The town is about 25 years old and it has three paved streets and the rest of the streets are essentially water gulleys. Even in parts of the town a 4-wheel drive is necessary.
The “Mother” church of the parish has recently been renovated and new rooms have been built to the apartment over the church where I will live. I share the quarters and work with Fr. Derek Byrne a member of the Kiltegan Fathers, Co. Wicklow. There are also three Brazilian “Parish Sisters” living just across the road. We also have a full time parish secretary. The office is directly under my room. The office opens at 7 am so if I am not awake by then, the commotion downstairs will soon change that.
Living on the side of the road and forest
The parish itself is about the size of Co. Wexford. It has one town, Castanheira, where I live. In the town along with the Mother {Main} Church there are two wooden churches in the “Barrios”. In the country side there are 24 communities which have a church or a building of some kind to celebrate in. We visit them about once a month for the monthly mass and on Sundays they hold a “Culto” / A Service of God’s Word, themselves. Each community has its own working committee and community leader. They also have their own catechist who prepares children and adults to receive the Sacraments.
Next January, because of the expected heavy rains all Masses outside of the town are cancelled, because even in the Jeep travelling would be hard and dangerous, bridges down etc. Imagine cancelling all the masses in a parish for a whole month at home!! That will leave me free to deal with a new problem with my visa and return to São Paulo to visit the Federal Police again. {It seems I spend more time with them than in the church}. Such is life! The visa needs renewing during the month prior to its renewal date and since I arrived on the 31st January, this means I must renew before 31st of December, which means, I will possibly have to return to São Paulo again, for my first ever Christmas away from home! But one thing is for sure I’m taking the bus and plane the next time.
“Que as bênçãos mais sublimes do céu iluminem você neste Natal em todos os dias do Ano Novo.”
o-o-o-O-o-o-o
"May the most marvellous blessings of heaven be your light this Christmas and in all the days of the New Year."
A special greeting to my new friends from “Cenfi” {Brasilia’s Language School for Missionaries March to June 2006} to Fr. Gregory from California and Fr. Muriuki from Kenya, both of whom have just lost their mothers since arriving in Brazil. It is always hard to be away from home at such times. So I offer a special prayer for you both and your families this Christmas.
O Tchau para agora / Bye for now,
Denis
P.s.
Happy big “50” Brother
The 13km bridge over the Paraná River
A storm is brewing
Welcome to Castanheira
